Measure Twice, Order Once!
Rollout shelf measuring guide including Steve’s Tips to a Perfect Shelves That Slide Fit

Do it yourself and save on pullout shelving
How to measure for the best custom pull out shelves

Measuring guide

The first step is determining what style cabinet you have. The traditional cabinet style in the US has been face framed cabinets but frameless cabinets are becoming more common

Framed Cabinet - Called a framed cabinet because it has a face frame that attaches to the front of the cabinet sides, top and bottom. The face frame is often 1 1/2" wide and consists of vertical stiles and horizontal rails. The inside of the cabinet is wider than the frame opening. Usually about 3/4" on each side but that can vary

Frameless Cabinet - As you can guess the frameless cabinet does not have a face frame. The front edge of the sides, top and bottom are the front of the cabinet. If the cabinet did not have doors the inside width and opening width would be the same. The hinges often protrude farther into the opening than traditional cabinets and the doors almost always reduce the opening width

Clear Cabinet Opening (Dimension A)

The clear opening width is the space your pull-out shelf needs to clear at the height it will be installed

Tips:

• Always provide the clear opening width of your cabinet, not the width you want the finished wood box
• For lower shelves, the width is usually the width between the hinges as they protrude into the cabinet opening
• For upper shelves, measure between cabinet face frames or from door to face frame or door to door, whatever the space the shelf need to clear to pull out. The hinges do not usually interfere with the upper shelf
• Ensure the cabinet door opens at least 90°. If a fully open door reduces the opening slightly, use this reduced dimension. This may happen due to a knob on the door hitting a wall or the handle of the oven etc.
• It is common for lower shelves to be slightly narrower than upper shelves due to the hinge intrusion

Ordering Notes:

• Always provide the clear cabinet opening width when ordering. We’ll adjust for sliding hardware.
• Shelves are custom-made in 1/16" increments for a precise fit.
• Maximum width for premium 2 3/8" tall pull-out shelves: 39" cabinet opening.

Depth Framed cabinet

Shelves That Slide offers sliding shelves in depths ranging from 11 3/4" up to 31 3/4", in convenient 2" increments (9 3/4" on special order)

• Standard Kitchen Cabinets: Typically use shelves that are 21 3/4" or 22 3/4" deep.

• Standard Bathroom Cabinets: Usually require a 19 3/4" deep shelf.

• Custom Depths: Shelves can go up to 32" deep, with costs increasing for deeper shelves.

How to Measure for DIY Pull-Out Shelves

1. Measure from the inside edge of the cabinet face frame (back side, not the front) to the back wall of the cabinet—this is your Dimension B.

2. Check for any obstructions like pipes, wires, or outlets, and adjust your measurement accordingly.

3. Just like the price is right, pick the closest without going over and leave yourself at least 1/4" extra. I.E. if you measure 22 1/2" you select 21 3/4". If you have 23 3/4" go 22 3/4", if you have 24" you can go 23 3/4" unless you go rear mount, see below

4. Consider depth vs. width: Sometimes a slightly narrower shelf allows for full depth, which can be more practical than a full-width shelf that is 3"– 4" shorter.

Special Considerations

• For rear mount, make sure you have at least 1/2" over selected shelf depth. Cabinets over 24" deep may require special-order shelves with longer slides.

• Ball Bearing full extension slides are available in lengths up to 27 3/4".

Frameless

Same as framed except measure from the back wall to the front of the cabinet and then subtract 1/2".

Inset doors
Framed or Frameless

For inset doors, measure from the back wall to the back of the closed door and subtract 1/4" for base mount or 1/2" for rear mounting

Mounting style

There are four standard methods of mounting pullout shelves depending on whether your cabinet has an existing full depth shelf, a shallow "half shelf" or no shelf at all

Base mount - 4 L brackets - the most common method

A base mount is pretty much as it sounds. It is mounting to the base of the cabinet or to an existing full depth shelf. This is perhaps the easiest installation available and also can be the strongest. The drawer slides will have four "L" brackets attached and these "L" brackets are secured to your existing shelf or cabinet floor. When you order base mount the L brackets come preinstalled on to the slides. In framed cabinets this L brackets sits behind the face frame so we do not account for it in the width. If you have a frameless cabinet you may need to deduct for the L bracket, see section below this paragraph. It is suggested that if the cabinet has adjustable shelves and if the shelf clips for the shelf you are mounting to is plastic you should replace them with metal shelf clips. We offer metal shelf clips with holes in them for locking the shelf in place here. It is also necessary to secure the back of adjustable shelves so that they can not tip up when the sliding shelf is extended. This can be accomplished simply by inserting a couple of screws in the back or side walls of the cabinet with the heads of the screws protruding enough to hold the shelf down and prevent tipping when the slider is extended or replace your shelf clips with metal shelf pins. Base mounting is the most common method of installing the shelves

Note: L brackets lift the shelf 5/8" above the surface it is mounted to

Frameless Base Mount On frameless cabinets with a single door or no doors there is no place for the L bracket that normally sits behind the cabinet face frame. Because of this you must deduct from the clear opening width. The L brackets use 1/4" on each side. If you have a single door you will need to deduct 1/4". If you have a cabinet with no doors and you want to base mount you will need to deduct 1/2" to allow for the L brackets.  If you have double doors and hinges or doors that protrude at least 1/4" into the opening you can order the clear opening with no deductions. Alternatively you can choose to remove the L brackets from the flush side of the cabinet and mount the slide directly to the wall in which case not deduction for the L brackets needs to be done. It is a good idea to set the slide in place while still on the L brackets and mark the location on the cabinet side. Then you can remove the L brackets and mount the slide where you marked

Half Shelf - 2 rear L brackets   

Many cabinets have a shallow upper shelf that we refer to as a half shelf, this is a shelf that is usually 9" to 12". You do not have to put in a shallow pull out shelf just because your cabinet has a shallow shelf. You will use the half shelf to mount the back of the slides while the front of the sliding shelf hardware will attach to the cabinet's face frames. The slides will have two "L" brackets in the rear to attach to your half shelf. If your doors protrude into the cabinet opening so that your clear opening is smaller than the framed opening you will need to order spacers to make up for the difference. For example if you have a 15" opening and the shelf needs to be 14 7/8" because the door sticks out 1/8" you will need to order a 1/8" spacer for you to put between the slide and the cabinet face frame. If this is a double door cabinet and both doors reduce the opening you will need to order spacers for both sides. We offer special Frame Spacers of our own design in sizes from 1/8" to 3/4" in 1/16" increments. This installation is very solid as long as long as the face frames are a hardwood and not a particle board. We suggest reinforcing particle board face frames with a hardwood piece placed vertically or installing a full stationary shelf to mount the slider to. We offer 3/4" hardwood blocks here which work well for this or you can supply your own. Make sure the half shelf is secure so that it will not tip up when the sliding shelf is extended. See full shelf section for tip on screws in the back wall. The front of slide cannot attach to face frame and will have to be built out from the sidewall of the cabinet to use the half shelf mount. The same rules for frameless cabinets with a half shelf apply as they do for the base mount regarding deduction for the L brackets

What if there is no existing shelf?
If you want to install a Pull Out Shelf and there is no existing shelf, there are two types of no shelf installations. The first is with rear mount sockets and the second is side mount.

Rear Mount
Sockets are mounted to the end of the sliding hardware and are attached to the cabinet's back wall. The front of the slide is attached to the cabinet face frame as with the half shelf installation. The 3/4 extension slides use plastic rear sockets while the ball bearing full extension have metal ones. Just like the half shelf mount the front of the slides will attach to the cabinet face frame for framed cabinets. If the door(s) reduce the opening width you will need spacers. Our framed spacers are great for face frame cabinet, designed and 3D printed in house. For frameless cabinets the Euro spacers are the best choice. If your cabinet is not predrilled with 5mm holes 32mm apart (about 1 1/4") we offer a hole jig and drill bit set

Framed cabinet rear mount

Frameless rear mount

Side Mount

The second method of installing with no shelf is to side mount. Spacers are used to attach the slides directly to the cabinet sidewalls. Measuring the exact inside width is critical so make sure you check out the graphic on Steve's tape measure tips and tricks page. We offer a jig and bit in our hardware section for drilling holes for the euro spacers. The drill jig has hole spacing for the standard 3/4 extension slides and the ball bearing full extension. The jig works with 3/4 extension slides from 16" to 22" and the ball bearing full extension slides from 18" to 24" deep. The euro spacers are available from 1/2" to 1 1/2" in 1/4" increments and use pozilock screws that screw into 5mm holes that are 32mm apart vertically (about 1 1/4"). The sidewalls must be thick enough so that you do not drill through. Always check sidewall depth and be sure the drill bit stop is set so that you do not drill through.  Another option for side mounting is to use wood to build up the space. for single upper shelves you can run the wood horizontally at the level you want the shelf making sure it builds out the inside of the cabinet to match the ordered clear opening width. If you are installing a series of shelves in one cabinet like a pantry cabinet it may be better to cut a piece of wood the same thickness as the side to build it out as needed. If this wood is mounted vertically from the base of the cabinet up the installation can be very sturdy and support higher weight items such as canned food in a pantry. The same requirements for measuring apply for the no shelf install as they do to the half shelf installation. Make sure to order the spacers that you need when placing your order.

Frameless side mount Same as the framed except instead of clearing the framed opening you are often just clearing the door overlap and if a single door cabinet one slide will be mounted directly to the sidewall with no spacers needed

Slide Type

We offer two types of slides for our pull out shelves. The standard slides are 3/4 extension and we also offer an upgrade full extension ball bearing slides with soft close.  The standard 3/4 extension slides work great for most installations and if you are trying to get the best pull out shelves without spending too much the 3/4 extension are a great choice. For smaller items on a shelf like canned goods in a pantry you get full access the full extension ball bearing slides, they slide very smooth and customers appreciate the soft close feature

Spacers

We offer 3 types of spacers in our hardware section of our store

Standard spacers

Available in 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" these spacers are not intended to be stacked nor combined with the other spacer styles

Euro Spacers

Available from 1/2" to 1 1/2" in 1/4" increments

Originally found on frameless cabinets with the 32mm system. That is a series of hole 32mm apart vertically which is about 1 1/4". Many of the spacers use every other hole so 64mm apart (about 2 1/2"). The spacing horizontally was standard and matched the spacing on Euro style hardware such as hinges and drawer slides. Over the years it has been adopted by many cabinet makers for both framed and frameless cabinets but in many cases only the vertical spacing remained the same. It seems rare these days to find cabinets that have the correct hole spacing which is why we designed the hole jig which we make in house using a laser for precision hole size and spacing (see below).

Frame spacers

Frame spacers are unique to Shelves That Slide as they are our own design which we 3D print in house. We offer them in sizes from 1/8" to 3/4" in 1/16" increments. They work for both the standard 3/4 extension slides and the ball bearing full extension. They are secured to the slide with a pozi drive screw and then set in place and you secure the slide and the spacer to the cabinet face frame. These only work on face frame cabinets. They come with the pozi drive screw to secure the slide to the spacer but no other hardware is provided. We suggest using a screw about 3/4" longer than the spacer depth you select. A 1/4" spacer will need a 1" long screw, a 1/2" spacer should use a 1 1/4" etc. Be sure to predrill a 1/16" hole in the frame first to reduce the chance of splitting. You can order the Frame Spacers here
 

Steve's measuring tips

Why every inch (and fraction) matters

After 35 years of installing pull-out shelves, I’ve seen thousands of “standard” cabinets that are anything but standard. Cabinet openings vary more than most people realize. A two door cabinet with a center stile may take four different size shelves. That is not a problem with pullout shelves from Shelves That Slide

Some sliding shelf systems are only available in 3-inch increments (9", 12", 15" etc.). In the world of cabinetry, that can leave a large gap on either or both sides of your cabinet opening! That’s not just an eyesore — it’s lost storage space inside your cabinet. Some slide out shelf companies let you pick every inch or maybe even every 1/4" but Shelves That Slide lets you order widths in 1/16" increments so you can get a shelf that perfectly fits your cabinet opening

There will usually be a little unused space inside a cabinet as the slides must clear the opening, but you shouldn’t have to settle for shelves that don’t fit your cabinet

The Shelves That Slide Precision Advantage

At Shelves That Slide, we build our pull-out shelves to fit your existing cabinet

• Widths available in 1/16" increments from 6" to 39"

• Depths available in 2" increments from 12" to 32"

That level of precision means no large gaps and no wasted space. Your shelf fits snugly and looks like it was built with the cabinet, not added years later.

Steve’s Pro Tip

Don’t let the fractions intimidate you.

Use a quality tape measure, and take a look at my tips on the Tape Tricks Page to get an accurate clear opening measurement.

See our measuring tape tips here

You measure it — we build it!

Installation Guide

Looking for a do it yourself home improvement project to make your life easier? Here is what you need to know to do-it-yourself install our custom made pull out kitchen shelves. There are four ways to mount Shelves That Slide into your cabinet. The first and most common is mounting on an existing full size shelf or cabinet base. The second is mounting to an existing half shelf that is 6" - 12" deep. The third is to mount to the rear wall with sockets. The forth method is mount to the cabinet side walls. All of these installation methods have similarities. We will cover the basic steps first, then you can go on to the specifics for your method of installation.

Use the shelf

The number one tip is to let the shelf be your tool for setting the slides. There are points in every method of installation that will be easiest to accomplish when you use the shelf as your placement guide. The drawer slides that we use have a control side and a free side. The right side slides are the control side, the track that the wheel rolls in is a captive one. The metal is bent around the wheel and the wheel will only track in that groove. The left side slide is the free side that allows for adjustment of the assembly. For this reason it is very important to pay attention to the left side slide. Any problems with slide alignment will be evident here, the right side will align itself. 

Base mount installation

The easiest and usually strongest method of installing Shelves that Slide is when you are mounting onto a full depth existing shelf or the cabinet base. The first thing you need to consider is  the existing shelf permanent or is it adjustable. If it is a permanent shelf you can go straight to installing the slides. If it is adjustable you need to look at two things. The first is what are the clips or pins that are holding it up made of? If they are plastic you need to replace them with metal clips or pins. The front mounting of the shelf will be subjected to twice the weight it is now exposed to when you extend a loaded shelf. The second consideration goes right along with the first in that when the loaded shelf is extended it will want to lift up in the back. This is easily remedied by placing a couple of screws in either the back or the side walls (which ever is thicker, but don't go through to an exposed wall) just above the existing shelf and leave the head sticking out far enough to hold the screw down. 

Installing the slides

For a full shelf installation you should have two "L" shaped brackets on each cabinet slide. The wheeled end of the cabinet part of the slide is the front. Set the slides onto the existing shelf or cabinet base at the approximate width of the sliding shelf. Engage the shelf slides into the cabinet slides by setting the wheeled end of the shelf slide over the wheeled end of the cabinet slide. The most important side to get in place is the right side. You can always slip the left side into place after getting the right side in properly. Insert the shelf fully into the cabinet and align the front of the shelf to be square with the cabinet front and have the proper set back. The proper set back depends on your cabinet depth but it is usually about 1/2" to 3/4" back from the inside edge of the cabinet face frame. Get your screwdriver ready! When you have the shelf adjusted press down slightly and slide the shelf forward just far enough to expose the rear brackets. Insert a screw in one of the slots in the right rear bracket. Use the hole that goes side to side so you can adjust it latter, tighten moderately. Now slide the shelf back into place and check the alignment. When it is adjusted properly slide the shelf out again to expose the rear bracket and place a screw in the opposite side slotted hole in a slot that goes from left to right and tighten moderately. Again slide the shelf in and check alignment. If all is well you can carefully slide of the shelf without disturbing the position of the front brackets. This may take a couple of tries. Install screws in the front brackets the same as you did for the rear brackets. Insert the shelf again and check alignment. Remember to pay careful attention to the left side slide if the gap is too large in the rear the shelf will roll great but as soon as you add weight you will get a bump when you slide it out. After you get everything aligned you can remove the shelf and install a screw in the center hole of the bracket to lock it in place, two screws per bracket is all that is needed. Congratulations your shelf is done!!! Well almost, see plastic thing. 

Half shelf installation 

The second method of installing sliding shelves is also the second best and the second easiest. You will need a small level, preferably one with a magnetic strip on one side. Check the existing shelf to make sure it is secure and can not lift up. Also check to make sure the hardware that supports the existing shelf is metal. If you have plastic hardware and plan on loading more than lightweight items into the shelf you will have to replace the hardware with metal. The slides for your half shelf installation will have one metal "L" shaped bracket mounted toward the rear. The end with the wheels is the front! If you have brackets in the rear and front, the front ones will not be needed and should be removed. Set the rear bracket on the existing shelf and place the front edge of the slide against the cabinet face frame, back about 3/16" from the front. Place your level on the slide and level it. When you have the slide level mark the location of the front hole in the slide. You can then measure the height and make a corresponding mark on the other side face frame. It is best to drill a small pilot hole to prevent splitting, before screwing the slide in place. After you have the front of the slides attached you can set the shelf in place by lifting the wheels on the rear of the shelf slides over the wheels on the front of the cabinet slides. Pay careful attention to the right side slide.  Insert the shelf all the way into the cabinet and align the shelf to be square with the cabinet front. If there is too much space between the cabinet face frames you will need to insert spacers or washers to build out. You can order spacers from us in 1/8", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes. You may also be able to find something similar in a local hardware store. Get your screwdriver ready! Check the alignment of the left side slide and when it is properly aligned press down slightly on the shelf and extend it far enough to see the rear bracket. Place a screw in one of the slotted holes and tighten moderately. Reinsert the shelf and check slide alignment. When alignment is correct repeat the process of extending the shelf and insert a screw in the other side's bracket. Again insert the shelf and adjust as needed. When everything is aligned extend the shelf again and place a screw in the center hole of the bracket to lock it in place. Congratulations your shelf is done!!! Well almost, see plastic thing

Rear mount sockets

Rear mount sockets are a great alternative mounting for shelves where there will not be much weight. They are perfect for adding a shelf in a bathroom cabinet. The main limitation is if they are loaded with a lot of weight they tend to only be good for a year or two before they succumb to the stress. The first step is to determine the height that you want the shelf. Make a mark on both cabinet face frames for the bottom of the shelf. Insert the cabinet slides partially into the plastic sockets (you must have specified a rear socket installation when ordering) note the brackets are different for left and right sides. Attach the front end of the slides (the end with the wheels) to the cabinet face frame where you marked. You will need to push the slide slightly against the back wall of the cabinet to get the socket seated to the needed depth. Install the shelf by lifting the rear end of the shelf slides (the end with the wheels) over the wheels on the front of the cabinet slides. Slide the shelf in completely and align it to be square with the front of the cabinet. Now comes the fun part. Make a line on the back wall to mark the position of each slide for the horizontal placement. You can now remove the shelf and place a level on the cabinet slide. Align the slide with the previous line that you made and level the height. Now you can either install one screw in the socket or mark another line for the vertical position. Repeat this process for the other side and after you have one screw in each socket reinstall the shelf and check for proper operation. Once you have the shelf adjusted, install at least one more screw in each socket. If you are having trouble getting the shelf to slide smoothly make sure the slides are parallel to each other and not twisted. Congratulations your shelf is done!!! Well almost, see plastic thing.  Also they will not work with shelves deeper than 22 3/4" unless longer slides are used.

Side mount method

When you need more weight capacity than the rear socket method can provide and you either don't have or don't want full or half shelves in your cabinet, the answer is side mounting. We can provide spacers to install the cabinet slides to the cabinet side walls. The problem is the cabinet side walls are usually not more than 1/2" thick and there is about 1" of space or more that needs to be spaced out. Leverage will lead to this being a weak installation. However if you can install vertical strips of wood on both sides (two on each side, one near the front and the other near the back) that provide the proper filling to match the space behind the cabinet face frame, a side mount installation can be the strongest and most space efficient installation. It is best to use a piece of wood the same thickness as the space behind the face frame that runs from the bottom of the cabinet to above the height that you want the shelf installed. You can glue and screw this piece of wood in place to make a secure attachment. After the wood is installed you can measure up and make a mark where you want the slides installed. Simple screw the slides in where marked and you should be able to install the sliding shelf. Just lift the rear end of the shelf slides (the end with the wheel) over the wheels on the front end of the cabinet slides. Insert the shelf fully and check for alignment paying careful attention to the left side alignment, adjust as needed. Congratulations your shelf is done!!! Well almost, see plastic thing. 

Plastic thing   

Finally we come to that white plastic thing. That thing is a door protector. There is one door protector per shelf included. If you have a cabinet with two doors closing on one shelf (a door on both the left and right side with no center divider) you will need two door protectors per shelf. Please request the extra door protectors under special instructions. No door protectors are needed for the economy shelves due to the extended front wood trim.  The door protector is mounted to the side of the shelf. The purpose of the door protector is of course to protect the door. The plastic sticks out about 1/16" more than the drawer slide to keep you from scratching the door in case it is not opened fully before sliding out the shelf. Just screw the door protector to the side of the shelf (one screw). Watch for hinge clearance and if the door has a recessed panel make sure you mount the door protector as low as possible. The door protectors will not work on standard height shelves with full extension slides. Fortunately the front of the full extension slides is rounder than the 3/4 extension so the pullouts do not need them as badly.

Please note: The actual size of the wood box  is 1" less than the size of the clear cabinet opening that you provide. This is to allow for the sliding shelves slides which use 1/2" on each side and must pass through the cabinet opening. We tell you that only so that when you receive the shelf you do not think we made an error. Do not adjust your width thinking that somehow this inch can can sit behind the frame because if you do your shelf will not fit!

Disclaimer

This page is offered as a guide for installing a pull out shelf and it is not intended to offer every detail for every possible installation. It is expected that the home improvement do-it-yourselfer has sufficient knowledge as to judge the soundness of their installation of kitchen and bathroom shelves.

Click here for a Printable version of this page in PDF format         
Click here for our Measuring worksheet and fax order form

Because it always helps to have another viewpoint on home improvement and shelving systems installations

Here are some installation instructions from a few of our customers

Oregon 

Steve, the shelves arrived and are installed -- thanks!

I installed your drawers on movable shelves.  I read your installation instructions on your web site several times through, just to make sure I would do the job right.  Each time through, though, I kept thinking to myself, there has to be an easier way than sticking my head back into a cramped, poorly lit pantry, trying to align, then screw down, these brackets. 

Now, I'm no pro, but I've done my share of DIY projects.  There's a couple of things I can almost guarantee with a project like this.  First, there will be bloody knuckles.  The second thing, sometimes related to the first, is that there will be cursing.  So I'm reading your instructions, thinking, there are tight dark corners in there, and drawer slides that need to be lined up perfectly (or at least, close to perfect) -- there will be cursing for sure, and probably bloody knuckles!  Why, I'm thinking to myself, do I have to attach those slides in place?  Why can't I take these removable shelves out of the pantry and fasten the slides in a nice, open, well-lighted space, where there's plenty of room?  All I have to do, I'm thinking, is get the proper measurements, mark the shelves, and it should work. 

I figured I'd try the first of the four shelves, and if it worked, I'd finish the other three that way.  If not, the worst case scenario is that I have to turn the shelf upside down to avoid misplaced screw holes, and start over, using your instructions.

I took some photos to document the process -- feel free to use them if you'd like.  And, if these instructions make sense, use them, too.

The "bare shelf" picture shows the removable shelf -- pretty typical, laminated mdf.  The only trick here is to make sure you work with the laminated edge exposed - the back edge is bare mdf, and you want that towards the back.

My shelves are 22 1/4" wide.  I placed the drawer, in the slides, on the shelf (see "drawer in brackets no screws" picture) and measured.  That width was 20 3/4".  The difference is 1 1/2"; divided by two, that's 3/4" on each side.  This approach will only work, I suppose, if your placement (like mine) is symmetric, same clearance on both sides.  The front to back placement was simply a matter of judgment, making sure there was enough clearance for the pantry door.

I took my handy square, set the ruler gauge at 3/4", and marked a line on both sides, front and back, approximately where the slide brackets would be.  See photo, "measuring in from the side".  I did the same from the back edge of the shelf, with the proper distance.  On subsequent shelves, I knew the 3/4" was constant from the sides, and for the back edge, I simply loosed the nut on the gauge, adjusted the ruler, and used that.

Next, I screwed in the slides, one screw per bracket, in the slots (not the center hole), so I would have "play" in all directions, if needed.  See photo, "one back screw."  I inserted the drawer, and tested it out, making sure it glided smoothly.  When I was happy (very, very little adjustment was needed), I pulled the drawer slightly forward, and placed a screw in the center hole.    I carefully removed the drawer, tightened the screws in the front slots, and placed the center screw.  I tested the drawer again -- still glided smoothly.

I then placed the shelf in the pantry.  See photo, "Shelf in place."  Once again, I placed the drawer in and tested, making sure there was smooth glide and clearance.  See photo, "Drawer in place."  Satisfied, I placed two screws into the back wall, as you suggest on your site, to make sure the shelf doesn't tip forward when the drawer is extended.

The first time worked like a charm.  I was pleased, so I decided to take the photos of the second shelf (the ones I have attached).  On the third, I thought I'd time myself, since I had the process down.  Using only a hand screw driver (no power tools), and taking my time, no hurrying, the third shelf took 7 minutes, 17 seconds.  I didn't time the fourth shelf, but I think it was faster than the third.

And, as you can see from the last photo, no bloody knuckles, and (you'll have to take my word) no cursing!

My wife and I love the shelves, and we will definitely recommend them to all our friends!

Bert S. Braud

The Popham Law Firm

You are also welcome to call or fax in your order Toll free phone is 1-800-598-7390 Direct line 1-623-780-2555
Enter our online store here